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Feel Like a Native of Istanbul!
The essence of Istanbul’s cuisine lies in its Ottoman past. We say “Oh that is very Ottoman" when we spoon a delicious eggplant purée and braised lamb.
We refer to the food as “very Ottoman“ because it is an Ottoman classic. At the empire’s most flourishing days, the sultans employed some 1300 cooks in the ceramic –domed kitchens of Topkap? Palace, each assigned for his entire career to cooking a single type of dish.
Today, Istanbul’s cooking combines the best of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. It relies heavily on the freshest vegetables, fragrant olive oil, grilling and the flavours of many ingredients. Combined to this Mediterranean sensibility are Middle Eastern notes–lamb, rice, dried fruits, grape leaves and yogurt. The spicing of Istanbul food too is Middle Eastern: cinnamon and saffron appear in savoury dishes, mildly spicy Urfa and Maras peppers are set out on tables as salt and pepper are abroad. Our cuisine also relies on seafood from a simple grilled Blue fish to rice-stuffed musells and spicy octopus salad.
Turkish food is not complicated cooking, it is about getting simple cooking absolutely right. We delight in every detail of the preparation, in every stage of its development.
With its magical minarets and bazaars, traffic and grit, and glitzy Eurasian high life, Istanbul is a hallucinatory experience. The richness of its cuisine contributes to the thrill. While there is no shortage of transnational dining, its worth seeking out traditional Turkish cuisine at the establishements we will suggest to you. Istanbul with literally a restaurant at every turn is a real culinary treat and a snackers paradise. Once in Istanbul we will also suggest you the best restaurants as well as the typical ones where you can eat mezes and drink raki...
Istanbul… An almighty city for which wars were made and millions of lives were lost through thousands of years… A huge metropolis connecting continents, different cultures and religions; being home to eleven million people and one of the greatest business and cultural center of the region…
Istanbul is both the nearest European city to Asia and the nearest Asian city to Europe. It has been a merciful shelter to people since 3000 B.C. and the great capital of Byzantium and Ottoman Empires. An irresistible beauty with its precious Bosphorus, unique historical inheritances adorning its silhouette, and of course its hospitable people…
No corner of Istanbul is like any other. Even districts that stand right next to one another are very different, from their houses to their shops, and their streets to their traders. You can find everything in the world that you might be looking for and more in Istanbul, where people from all walks of life live together in a tremendous hustle and bustle: The mystery of the East and the practicality of the West. In local markets one can find a wide range of peppers, honey, varieties of local cheeses, dried spiced beef, sausages, braised beef, an astonishing variety of medicinal herbs, different teas, and even herbs and charms to ward off the evil eye which are to be found in every Turkish home. The city of Istanbul itself is one great big bazaar!
With Turkish Flavours you will learn see and feel Istanbul!
As nomads, the Turks were limited by what the land offered and by what could be prepared over a crude open fire, so it's not a stretch to understand how kebaps and köfte became the centerpieces of Turkish cooking. Turkish food today concentrates on simple combinations, few ingredients, and fresh produce.
With access to vast cupboards stocked with ingredients from the four corners of the empire, the palace chefs developed a more complex cuisine. The majority of these recipes, recorded in Arabic script, were regrettably lost in the language reforms. Some Ottoman favorites have made it to us nevertheless, like the hünkar begendi (the sultan was pleased), imam bayildi (the priest fainted; Barbara Cartland might have likened it to a woman's "flower"), and hanim göbegi (lady's navel), a syrupy dessert with a thumbprint in the middle. These have become staples in many run-of-the-mill restaurants, but true Ottoman cuisine is difficult to come by. Several restaurants in Istanbul have researched the palace archives to restore some of those lost delicacies to the modern table, providing a rare opportunity to sample the artistry and intricate combinations of exotic flavors in the world's first fusion food. The Turkish kitchen is always stocked with only the freshest vegetables, the most succulent fruits, the creamiest of cheeses and yogurt and the best cuts of meat. But, unless you're a pro like the chefs to the Sultans, whose lives depended on pleasing the palate of their leader, it takes a lot of creativity to turn such seemingly simple ingredients into dishes fit for a king.
A typical Turkish meal begins with a selection of mezes, or appetizers. These often become a meal in themselves, accompanied by an ample serving of raki, that when taken together, form a recipe for friendship, laughter, and song. The menu of mezes often includes several types of eggplant, called patlican; ezme, a fiery hot salad of red peppers; sigara böregi, fried cheese "cigars"; and dolmalar, anything from peppers or vine leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, cumin, and fresh mint.
The dilemma is whether or not to fill up on these delectables or save room for the kebaps, a national dish whose stature rivals that of pasta in Italy. While izgara means "grilled," the catchall phrase kebap simply put, means "roasted," and denotes an entire class of meats cooked using various methods. Typical kebaps include lamb "shish"; spicy Adana kebap, a spicy narrow sausage made of ground lamb; döner kebap, slices of lamb cooked on a vertical revolving spit; patlican kebap, slices of eggplant and lamb grilled on a skewer; and the artery-clogging Iskender kebap, layers of pide, tomatoes, yogurt, and thinly sliced lamb drenched in melted butter. Turks are equally nationalistic over their köfte, Turkey's answer to the hamburger: flat or round little meatballs served with slices of tomato and whole green chili peppers. But even though signs for kebap houses may mar the view, Turkish citizens are anything but carnivores, preferring instead to fill up on grains and vegetables. Saç kavurma represents a class of casseroles sautéed or roasted in an earthenware dish that, with the help of an ample amount of velvety Turkish olive oil, brings to life the flavors of ingredients like potatoes, zucchini, tomatoes, eggplant, and beef chunks. No self-respecting gourmand should leave Turkey without having had a plate of manti, a meat-filled ravioli, dumpling, or kreplach, adapted to the local palate by adding a garlic-and-yogurt sauce. Pide is yet another interpretation of pizza made up of fluffy oven-baked bread topped with a variety of ingredients and sliced in strips. Lahmacun is another version of the pizza, only this time the bread is as thin as a crepe and lightly covered with chopped onions, lamb, and tomatoes. Picking up some "street food" can be a great diversion, especially in the shelter of some roadside shack where the corn and gözleme -- a freshly made cheese or potato (or whatever) crepe that is the providence of expert rolling pin-wielding village matrons -- are hot off the grill.
Desserts fall into two categories: baklava and milk-based. Baklava, a type of dessert made of thin layers of pastry dough soaked in syrup, is a sugary sweet bomb best enjoyed around teatime, although several varieties are made so light and fluffy that you'll be tempted to top off dinner with a sampling. The milk-based desserts have no eggs or butter and are a guilt-free :)) pick-me-up in the late afternoon hours, although there's no bad time to treat yourself to some creamy sütlaç (rice pudding). The sprinkling of pistachio bits is a liberal addition to these and many a Turkish dessert, while comfort food includes the irmik helva, a delicious yet simple family tradition of modestly sweet semolina, pine nuts, milk, and butter.
So what's the deal with Turkish delight? Otherwise known as lokum, this sweet candy is made of cornstarch, nuts, syrup, and an endless variety of flavorings to form a skwooshy tidbit.
In Turkey, tripe soup, called Iskembe Çorbasi or Kokoreç, is a widely accepted remedy for a hangover.
Rather than the question, "Would you like something to drink?" Turkish hospitality leaps immediately to the "What?"
Tea, called çay (chai) in Turkish, is not so much a national drink as it is a ritual. Boil the water incorrectly and you're in for trouble. Let the tea steep without prior rinsing and you've committed an unforgivable transgression. What's amazing is that so many tea drinkers manage to maintain white teeth, and as you'll see, some don't. Tea is served extremely hot and strong in tiny tulip-shaped glasses, accompanied by exactly two sugar cubes. The size of the glass ensures that the tea gets consumed while hot, and before you slurp your final sip, a new glass will arrive. If you find the tea a bit strong, especially on an empty stomach, request that it be "açik" or "opened," so that the ratio of water to steeped tea is increased.
EXPRESSIONS
"Afiyet Olsun" ! is an expression used to wish that a meal be enjoyed. Unlike other culturesş the expression is used both before and after a meal.
When anybody wants to express appreciation about food prepared by somebody elseş he says "Elinize Sağlık"! which means" May God give health to your hands". When proposing a toast, the expression "Şerefe" is used which literally means "to your honor".
TYPES OF TURKISH RESTAURANTS
LOKANTA
This kind of restaurant is typically Turkish and offers home cooking style food. From a selection of meals, it is possible
to go to the window and choose whatever you like.
KEBABÇI
This is the type of restaurant where you can eat Turkish Kebabs. Kebap is roasted, broiled or grillled meat prepared in many different ways, each of them named by adding a word describing the kebap; döner kebap- is lamb meat roasted on a revolving spit, şiş kebap- is cubes of marinated chicken or lamb meat on skewers, patlıcan kebap- meat and eggplant on skewers etc.
DOUGH SPECIALTY SHOPS
Turkish dough specialty shops would be a borekci, pideci, lahmacuncu or a mantıcı.
Borek is a flaky pastry filled with cheese, eggs, vegetables, or minced meat, then fried or baked. Gozleme is a thin dough filled with cheese and parsley and baked on thin iron plate placed in wood or charcoal fire. Pide is a thick dough base filled or covered with any combination of meat, cheese, eggs, etc. It is quite similar to pizza but served with butter and grated cheese. Lahmacun is a thin round dough base covered with a spicy mixture of minced lamb meat, onions, tomatoes and parsley. Mantı is a kind of pasta filled with minced lamb meat and served with yogurt and garlic.
In the times before there was fast food, people went to these restaurants to eat tripe or chicken soup either for breakfast or after heavy nights of drinking. These places also sell a special food: Kokoreç, roast and grilled lamb intestines, also sold in push carts by peddlers in the streets.
FISH RESTAURANTS
First, a large variety of soguk (cold) meze, (hors d'oeuvres) will be offered on a big tray among which you can choose a few, then you should sample a few sicak (hot) meze before the main dish. The main dish is either fish or meat. After having desserts or fruit, it is time to drink a cup of Turkish coffee.
Soguk meze: White cheese, olives, lakerda (salted bonito), dolma (stuffed vegetables), cacik (chopped cucumbers with yogurt and garlic), piyaz (beans salad), Arnavut cigeri (spiced liver), fava (bean paste), imam bayildi (stuffed eggplant), pilaki (white beans), patlican kizartma (fried eggplant), etc.
Sıcak meze: Fried mussels or squid, various kinds of borek, fried potatoes, etc.
TATLICI is a place where they sell different kinds of sweets. There are many of them like baklavaci, muhallebici, dondurmaci, helvaci, etc.
Baklava is thin layers of flaky pastry stuffed with almond paste, walnuts or pistachio nuts in syrup. Its name comes from the shape in which it is cut; lozenge-shapes. Kaymak is thick clotted cream eaten with most sweets as well as on its own with honey or jam. Aşure (Noah's pudding) is made from numerous types of dried fruits and pulses. Sutlac is rice pudding. Kadayıf is shredded wheat in syrup. Kestane sekeri is glacé chestnuts. They are generally canned or kept in glass jars in syrup. It is common in Bursa. Lokum (Turkish Delight) is cubes of jelly like or gummy confection flavored with flower or fruit essences and dusted with powdered sugar. Pişmaniye is a sweet made of sugar, flour and butter which resembles flax fibers. Tahin-Pekmez is a mixture of both Tahin, sesame oil and Pekmez, molasses or treacle (heavy syrup obtained from grapes). Helva is a flaky confection of crushed sesame seeds in a base of syrup. Dondurma is ice cream.
ISTANBUL STREETFOOD
The best thing about Istanbul street food now is that different street vendors sell only things that they themselves know and love. Street vendors are usually out at work in the early morning, and they pack up their carts sometime between 6 and 8 P.M., depending on the type of food. Luckily, eating on the street is very much a part of local life. You can’t walk from corner to corner on a street, cross a bridge, enter a square or park without coming across one or more snack shops, street stalls (büfe) or street vendors. Prices are always reasonable on the street.
Doner- Traditionally large, thin layers of lamb and beef are skewered on a giant rod, and roasted vertically over charcoal fire. This version is served inside a pide, a puffy, yeastless, oven-baked bread, with slices of tomato and pickles as garnish with no sauce.
Midye tava ( Fried Mussels) sandwich - Deep-fried mussels dressed with a creamy garlic sauce and served inside a crusty quarter loaf of bread.
Lahmacun Crispy, thin-crust pastries topped with finely minced lamb meat, onions and spices. It's traditionally served with stems of parsley, sumac marinated red onions and a slice of lemon.
Icli Kofte Deep fried balls of bulgur wheat filled with minced lamb meat, walnuts, parsley, and red pepper flakes Kavurma Conical hunk of meat conisting chunks of sheep meat (all parts, all kinds) and fat. It's then rendered down on a grill either by itself or with tomatoes and green peppers.
Kofte-meatballs – It is believed that there are 291 different kinds of meatballs (kofte) in Turkey. Make sure to eat at least once this Turkish delicacy.
Islak Burger Inside a burger bun, an unknown mixture of ground meats and spices , flaky, savory pastry. They come in different versions: plain (sade) or stuffed with pieces of cheese (peynirli), mince (kıymalı) or olives (zeytinli) grilled inside a panini press. The whole thing is then basted with deluded tomato paste.
Pogaca Flaky, savory pastry. They come in different versions: plain (sade) or stuffed with pieces of cheese (peynirli), mince (kıymalı) or olives (zeytinli).
Muhallebici -pudding house This concept of "Muhallebici" is one of those great traditions most Turkish people take for granted. This is where some great traditional Turkish desserts are served until late night (well into the morning) and some simple dishes such as Pilav with roast chicken and chicken noodle soup are also served. “Keskul", a traditional pudding made out of an almond base and milk. It's fragrant, rich and often topped with ground pistachios and coconut, you can also add a scoop of sweet cream ice cream on top.
Midye dolma These filled mussels are perfect any time from dusk till dawn, especially as a stomach liner for all the alcohol when you are out bar-hopping. The mussels are shelled, cooked with a lot of olive oil into a pilav, and then refilled into the shells. The vendor will re-shell them for you and serve so that you can eat them without getting your fingers oily.
Simit – A crisp, ring-shaped, savory roll covered with sesame seeds. Delicious when fresh and preferably washed down with ayran (salty liquid yoghurt).
Acma (Achma)– This doughnut lookalike is ring-shaped just like the simit, but doesn’t have a crust. It’s soft and oilier, hence less dry.
Corn on the Cob – During the summer, you can find street sellers offering freshly boiled or grilled corn (mısır) on the cob. Unless you want it generously sprinkled with salt, make sure to tell the seller in time to go easy on it.
Roasted Chesnuts -Kestane – Street vendors selling corn in the summer, mostly shift to roasted chestnuts in winter time.
Street Stalls (Büfe)
Near busy public transportation hubs or in popular (tourist) areas, you’ll find plenty of small kiosks on street corners. These bufes typically sell cigarettes, phone-cards and non-alcoholic cold drinks in cans or small bottles, but most of them also sell inexpensive, tasteful thin roasted sandwiches (tost) and hot dogs (sosisli sandvich). Do try out the kasharlı tost, a sandwich with melted cheese.
Pastry Shops (Borekchi)
These too are excellent places. A borekci is usually a tiny shop, with only a handful of chairs and tables, offering tea, coffee or a small selection of cold drinks and borek for a quick breakfast or lunch.
Borek is a flaky pastry existing of several thin layers. There are different kinds, based on their shape, filling and cooking method. You may want to try out the juicy su boregi (something in between a pastry and a lasagna), peynirli borek (with cheese filling), patatesli borek (with potato filling), ıspanaklı borek (with spinach filling) or kıymalı borek (filled with minced meat).
Most of these shops also sell pide which is a pita like baked dough with the same filling options as börek.
Kumpir It’s a baked potato, split open and stuffed with butter and cheese, then topped with any and/or all of the following: pickles, sweet corn, corn drenched in spicy tomato sauce, spicy tomato sauce by itself, green olives, black olives, sausage, steamed peas, carrots, mushrooms, Russian salad, mayonnaise, ketchup...
Fish Sandwiches (Balik ekmek)
Fish sandwiches being prepared on a boat. Balik ekmek is another typical Istanbul snack, and pretty tasteful and safe when prepared fresh. It’s pretty straightforward – a grilled or fried fresh fish inside a large piece of bread.
Tulumba - a traditional Turkish dessert also sold by street vendors at touristic locations. The dough is deep fried and then soaked in sugar syrup.
What would a Turkish Breakfast be without cheese?
Visitors to Turkey are usually astonished when they learn that there are about 160 varieties of local cheese( peynir – in Turkish).They come in many shades of pale,from pearly white to creamy to crumbly.
Few cultures feature cheese as a breakfast food so spectacularly as Turkey. When a Turk wakes up, he wants breakfast –even if it is well after noon. Visitors find cheese, olives, tomatoes,cucumbers and eggs laid out on the breakfast table with butter, honey, crusty bread and freshly brewed Turkish tea, this is the way a Turk begins his day.
Apart from breakfast cheese is used in cooking. Several cheeses melt well over pizzas, the unsalted lor is used in a rolled up fried pastry known as Sigara Böregi and in Antakya a local cream cream cheese melts into shredded pastry for a warm dessert known as künefe.
Turkish tost is the local derivative of a melted cheese sandwhich, compressed using a special waffle iron. Kaşer(kasher)cheese is the preferred choice here.
Some of the rich and rounded ewe’s milk cheeses make the most Turkish accompaniment to the country’s aniseed-based alcoholic drink, rakı. Many small dishes are served as starters or with an aperitif and these are called meze and resemble hors d’oeuvres. Ezine and Edirne cheeses are favoured,often with walnuts, with alcoholic drinks. Mushroom caps stuffed and grilled with Kaşer cheese make a tasty hot meze.
Popular Turkish Cheese
Beyaz Peynir - ( White cheese) is a general term for the white crumbly ewe’s milk cheese that you will see most frequently and which every Turkish housewife has on her table.
It teams up well with black or green olives,wines ,grapes and apples. It is one of the popular cheese to serve with rak? and as part of a selection of meze.
Kaşer- This is Turkey’s best known and most popular cow’s milk cheese. It resembles a mild or medium Cheddar and they both have the same pale yellow colour and texture and gain their uniqaue flavour after being left on shelves to mature over several months. Taze Kaşer comes in commercially produced, vacuum packed rectangular logs but this is not the same as thereal thing which is Eski (old) Kaşer, produced in wheel shaped moulds,mostly around Van and Kars.The cheese seller cuts off as much as you require.The European side of Turkey also makes a Kaser called Trakya Kaşer but the flavour is not as rounded as expansive as its Anatolian cousin.
The making of Kaşkaval cheese was a Jewish tradition and the Jewish residents of Trakya( European Turkey) were well known for their excellent cheeses. They produced cheese here well into the 1930’s. It is widely believed that the name of this cheese, Kaser , was an adaptation of the word Kashkaval which probably meant “kosher cheese”.
Lor – A soft white ,moist cheese which stays fresh for only a few days. It is often compared to Italian ricotta cheese. The best is made from ewe’s milk. The lack of distinct flavour makes it ideal for cooking or baking.
Tulum – This versatile cheese resembles Cheshire in its slightly mealy taste and crumbly texture. It is perfect with bread or toast also accompanies olives or pickles as an energizing snack.
TURKISH WINES UNLIMITED
Owing to its favourable climatic conditions and good soil a wide variety of grapes can be grown in Turkey. Visitors in Turkey are beginning to discover that there are some very good wines being made here. Turkey ranks sixth in world grape production. Although vineyards are spread all over the country, product?on is ma?nly concentrated in the Aegean, Mediterranean and Central Anatolian regions. Most Turkish wines are made from native wine grape varieties. Turkish wine producers are also using the native grapes in combination with European varieties to create high quality new wines with a new taste for the world wine market.
Some of the native grapes and their characteristics:
SULTANIYE
Produced in the town of Manisa and Denizli, situated in the Aegean province of Turkey bordering the Mediterranean province the grape is being produced at 200 meters above sea level and 1200 meters high in the town of Denizli. Sultaniye grape is light in texture, producing pleasant wines with fruit and spice aromas. It is highly recommended with all seafood, chicken and cheese as well as with all sweet pastries.
NARINCE
Produced in Tokat a town situated in North Central Anatolia region close to Black Sea province. Narince is a variatel wine with a yellow and greenish color. This elegant wine has flowery and strong fruit aromas. Goes well with seafood, chicken and cheese.
MISKET
The original name is Misket of Bornova.This variety is mostly grown in Izmir. The grains are medium size and round shaped.When ripe it has a red colour. It does not have too much must.This variety has a characteristical flavour and savour which consists of tropical fruits, flower, citrus, thyme anddaphne. Both dry and sweet Muscat wines are produced. Produces aromatic,live,light,easy to drink,clear golden yellow colored wines. Has basil,rose,mint,honey,bergamot,jasmine, melisa,orange blossom, daisy,grapefruit and melon aromas. Misket wine is a perfect aperitif wine. It is very coherent with neutral cheese,nuts,appetizers with sea food and slades that do not overshadow its aroma.
KALECIK KARASI
Produced from the grapes of Kalecik town in Ankara. The characteristics of this wine is burgundy red with bright purple hue, fresh red fruit at first followed by vanilla, banana, cherry, caramel aromas. Displays medium body and leaves velvet softness in the mouth. Kalecik Karas? is goods for aging 8 to 10 years. Recommend either with red meat and cheese.
OKUZGOZU
Produced from the grapes of certificated Okuzgozu vineyard in Elaz?g near the Euphrates river in Southeastern region of Turkey. The characteristics of this wine is medium body, well balanced, good quality soft tannins, dark in color with purple hue, very in rich aromas of red fruits also soft touch of tobacco and leather notes. This special wine aging very well and good up to 8 years. Recommended with red meat, kebabs and steaks, spaghettis, pastas & cheese.
BOGAZKERE
Produced from the grapes of certificated Bogazkere vineyards of Elaz?g near the Tigris river in Southeastern region of Turkey. The characteristics of this wine is strong body, very enjoyable long finishing, dark red color with dark blue hue, very rich and strong aromas of dried red fruits, spices. Good for aging up to 10 years. Recommended with red meat kebabs, turkey, salmon and cheese. Especially eastern Anatolian cheddar or Gruyere cheese.
Wine is a culture gradually gaining more prestige in Turkey, and seems that the production and consumption have also increased in Turkey. There are efforts to establish its place among quality product in the global market. There are many wine boutiques in big cities. Moreover, some wine lovers have begun to produce their own wine at home.
TURKISH COFFEE, RICH IN FLAVOUR AND TRADITION
"One neither desires coffee nor a coffeehouse.
One desires to talk with others, coffee is but an excuse."
A Turkish saying
From the days of the Ottoman Empire through to the present, coffee has played an important role in Turkish lifestyle and culture. The serving and drinking of coffee has had a profound effect on betrothal and gender customs, political and social interaction, prayer, and hospitality traditions throughout the centuries. Although many of the coffee rituals are not prevalent in today's society, coffee has remained an integral part of Turkish culture.
First brought to Istanbul in 1555 by two Syrian traders, coffee became known as the "milk of chess players and thinkers." By the mid-17th century, Turkish coffee became part of elaborate ceremonies involving the Ottoman court. Coffee makers with the help of over forty assistants, ceremoniously prepared and served coffee for the sultan. Marriage customs and gender roles also became defined through coffee rituals. In ancient times, women received intensive training in the harem on the proper technique of preparing Turkish coffee. Prospective husbands would judge a woman's merits based on the taste of her coffee. Even today, when a young man's family calls to ask a girl's parents for her hand in marriage, a formal coffee is served even in the most modern households.
For both men and women, coffee has been at the center of political and social interaction. During the Ottoman period, women socialized with each other over coffee and sweets. Men socialized in coffee houses to discuss politics and to play backgammon. In the early 16th century, these coffee houses played host to a new form of satirical political and social criticism called "shadow theatre" in which puppets were the main characters. Over the years, Turkish coffee houses have become social institutions providing a place to meet and talk. Today, Turkish coffee houses continue their role in society as a meeting place for both the cultured citizen and the inquisitive traveler. Istanbul offers many new and delightful cafe-restaurants where friends and family meet to discuss topics of the day over a cup of traditional Turkish coffee.
Derived from the Arabica bean, Turkish coffee is a very fine, powder-like grind. An aromatic spice called cardamom is sometimes added to the coffee while it is being ground. One can also boil whole seeds with the coffee and let them float to the top when served. Turkish coffee has various levels of sweetness ranging from bitter to very sweet. Because sugar is not added to the coffee after it is served, spoons are not needed. As the coffee begins to heat, it begins to foam. A rule of the Turkish coffee ceremony dictates that if the foam is absent from the surface of the coffee, the host loses face. Turkish coffee is served hot from a special coffee pot called a cezve. Tradition states that after the guest has consumed the coffee and the cup is turned upside down on the saucer and allowed to cool, the hostess then performs a fortune reading from the coffee grounds remaining in the cup. Rich in tradition and flavour, Turkish coffee remains a favourite today, not only in Turkey, but also among discriminating coffee drinkers around the world.
Reference: Newspot/BYEGM
THE MEYHANE CULTURE and RAKI
The meyhane culture tells a great deal about Turkey. Like the country, it offers almost infinite possibilities because it blends the heritage of so many different peoples. It encourages discourse and deepens friendship, but because the food is brought unbidden by a waiter instead of ordered from the menu, it does not require any action, any decision, any act of choice other than turning away dishes that do not strike one’s fancy. Raki can either evoke determination or resignation, a desire to rebel or an acceptance of the inevitability of submission.
An evening at the meyhane is centered around raki, but raki never stands alone. It is only one component, albeit the essential one, of a highly stylized ritual. With raki always come meze, small plates of food that appear stealthily, a few at a time. Theoretically, meze are appetizers leading to a main course, but often the main course, like Turkey’s supposedly great destiny, never materializes. No one complains about that because eating meze while sipping raki is such a supreme pleasure in itself. The path is so blissful that the idea of a destination seems somehow sacrilegious.
Rakı, the national alcoholic drink of Turks has a high degree alcohol and should not be consumed quickly. Most people drink it by mixing it with water. Colorless rakı turns milky white when mixed with water. Mindful drinkers fill 1/3 of their glass with rakı then add water and finally ice. Ice is never put in the glass first. If rakı is met with ice before water, it crystallizes and the taste changes. Some people drink rakı straight. In addition the rakı should be cold. One sip rakı, one sip water – it softens this strong drink. Rakı goes well with and often inspires good conversation. It is customary to eat meze (various foods served in small plates) while drinking rakı.
Here are some guidelines to observe when drinking rakı: First, wait until everyone has been served their rakı, then join in the toast all together. Try not to raise your glass higher than the rest. Never drink rakı with other liquors – it does not mix well and you may indeed find yourself feeling ill or suffering a terrible hangover the next day. Rakı is not a one-shot-liquor as vodka or tequila..
There is a saying in Turkish that goes something like this: “If you want to know a person, either travel with them or go and drink rakı with them”. Use good judgment when choosing whom to drink rakı with as it is quickly intoxicating. When you sit down at a Meyhane, you will first order your drinks and then a waiter will most likely bring a large tray of meze to the table and you can pick and choose which ones you would like. Don’t forget to order some butter with toasted bread as eating them will help you tolerate the alcohol. Usually, main course dishes follow the hot mezes. If you are not sure what to order, look around at the nearby table and point to something you find appealing. If you happen to sit at a table that is already loaded with mezes, send back the ones that you do not want (without touching them of course) so as not to be charged for them on bill.
It is a good idea to finish your meze before ordering any main course as you may very well find that you are full and satisfied with just the meze. If you are ordering fish, go lightly on the meze or you will be too full to enjoy its delicate flavor.
Often there are musical groups performing which will roam throughout the restaurant. If you do not want them to visit your table, tell the owner or manager immediately. If they do come to your table and play for you it is customary to give a tip. You need only tip one of them, but make the tip visible for all to see, so that they don’t keep standing there playing and coercing you into giving even yet another tip.
The daily Hürriyet newspaper asked the expert jury for the best ten wines in Turkey. Here are the results:
Doluca Özel Kav (red)
With a deep red color and produced from grapes grown in the Diyarbakır and Elazıg regions, Özel Kav is delicious with aromas of carnation, vanilla, damson and blackberry. It is produced with a well-balanced blend of Boğazkere and Öküzgözü grapes. Harvested in 2000, it was awarded with the gold medal at the Challenge International du Vin in France in 2001 and with the silver medal at Mode Selection contest in Belgium the same year. It is a fine accompaniment to meat, kebap, lasagna, ravioli and tortellini when served at 16-20 degrees. Özel Kav can be stored for 7-8 years.
Sarafin Merlot
Sarafin Merlot has a deep ruby color and is made from Merlot grapes. Sarafin Merlot has rich fruit flavors, is light and has a strong body. The 2001 vintage was produced from 10-year-old Merlot vines of the Saroz region. The 2000 vintage won the silver medal at Challenge International du Vin in France in 2001 with its particular fruit character. It best accompanies lamb, veal, kebap and pastry and is best served at 16-18 degrees. It can be stored for 6-7 years.
Sarafin Cabernet Sauvignon
The color is dark purple-ruby. The wine is aged in small French oak barrels for 18 months. Besides the flavors peculiar to Sauvignon grapes, it carries a vanilla flavor gained as the result of its being aged in the barrel. It has a full body and great intensity and is 14% alcohol, which is the percentage sought after in a Cabernet Sauvignon of international quality. The 2000 vintage was produced from 11-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines. It is best with spaghetti and red meat with heavy sauces. Cabernet Sauvignon is served at 16-18 degrees and can be kept for 10 years.
Kavaklıdere Boğazkere
Kavaklıdere Boğazkere is deep red in color and has an aroma of dried fruit and fig. It is monocépage (meaning made from a single kind of grape) and has a rich, strong and sharp flavor. The wine has been aged in oak barrels for 12 months and the aroma of the oak mixes with that of the grapes. As a result, Boğazkere contains aromas of fruit, spice and boisé (oak scent). The maturation of the wine is followed for one year after bottling. It can age for 10 years when necessary conditions are provided. It goes well with both red and white meat.
Sarafin Chardonnay
It has a deep straw color and a fruit flavor peculiar to Chardonnay. Its strong body and acrid flavor make it a perfect choice to drink alongside the main course. The Sarafin Chardonnay '99 won the silver medal at the Vinalies Internationales competition in France in 2001, the bronze and silver medals at Challenge International du Vin in France in 2000 and 2001 respectively, the bronze and silver medals at Chardonnay du Monde in France in 2002 and 2003 respectively and the gold medal at the Ljubljana Wine Competition in 2004. It is served at 8-10 degrees with main courses, spaghetti with sauce, and fish. It can be stored for 5-6 years.
Kavaklıdere Kalecik Karası
It is produced from the Kalecik Karası kind of grapes grown in Kalecik near Ankara. The wine has a rich and well-balanced structure. This prestigious special wine consists of lasting and effective red fruit aromas. The wine has a ruby color and a vanilla, cacao and red fruit flavor. Kalecik Karası has won seven awards since 1995. It goes well with meat, cheese varieties and especially with Château Brillant.
Kavaklıdere Öküzgözü
The color is bright red and rich. Kavaklıdere Öküzgözüis a dry wine with oak, fruit and spice aromas. It is aged in oak barrels for 12 months and then the maturation is followed for one year after bottling. It has cherry, blackberry, raspberry and dried plum flavors. It was awarded the bronze medal at the International Wine and Spirit Competition, England and the gold medal at Ecologico Internazionale, Italy, in 2000. Grills, cheese varieties and poultry are good companions to Öküzgözü. It is best served at 16-18 degrees.
Kavaklıdere Narince This monocépage wine is stored in oak barrels for one year and in bottles for the following year. It is produced from the famous Narince grapes of Tokat. It is dull yellow and greenish and has aromas of citrus fruits and daisy. It has a strong, full body and goes well with appetizers, seafood and poultry. Served at 8-10 degrees.
Sarafin Sauvignon Blanc
The color is yellow and greenish and it has a rich aroma evoking green apple, green plum and fresh green spices. It is produced from the grapes of the Saros region. It is a fruity, dry wine. Sarafın Sauvignon Blanc won silver medals at the Vinalies Internationales competition in France in the years 2000 and 2002. It is best with any kind of seafood, Far Eastern and Indian cuisine. It should be served at 8-10 degrees and can be stored for 2-3 years.
Doluca Safir
The only dessert wine in the best of Turkish wines list, Safir is produced from Misket grapes and has the rich aroma of citrus fruits, honey and daisy. The color is golden yellow and the taste is sweet, smooth and refreshing. Safir's 2000 vintage has been awarded with silver and gold medals at the Vinalies Internationales competition in 2000 and 2002. It goes best with desserts, cakes, fruits and ice cream and should be served at 6 degrees. Safir can be stored for 2-3 years.
The wines attracting the attention of the jurors:
Ankara Üniversitesi Porto likör şarabı
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